Butterick B5300 Step 1

Tape measure

I was in a small business seminar all day on Saturday, but all I could think about on the way home was getting a start on my muslin of Butterick B5300. After chatting with Chris for a while about our day, I got him to agree to help me take some measurements that I could use to compare to the pattern. After checking the pattern, I found that the only measurements included on the envelope are bust, waist, hips and bicep. So I pulled out the tape measure and grabbed a pen and paper, and we got started. I will be checking the back length on the muslin, because I am long-waisted and I was a bit irritated that the back length wasn’t included on the pattern envelope; this is often a place where I need to make adjustments, so I will be keeping an eye on it throughout the fitting process.

I started with my upper bust, because I have read that one can achieve better fit results if they use the upper bust measurement instead of the full bust measurement to choose a pattern like a blouse or dress. According to my upper bust measurement, I was in the 18-20 range. Next, we took my full bust measurement, more to determine what sort of full bust adjustment (FBA) I might need, then we took the waist, hips and right bicep. My hip and bicep measurements gave me the 22-24 size range, but the waist was more like a 28 range. My suspicion is that if I use the 28 through the waist, it might be a little bit too big, but I’m going to go ahead when I trace the pattern and use the 18-20 in the shoulders, then taper out to the largest size as I move down to my waist. I’ll leave it at the larger size for the hips as well. I have a feeling that the silhouette that will be created by this will make me look like I’m wearing a maternity blouse, and that it might be too large, but I’m going to try it and see. The reason why I have doubts is that I followed the pattern measurements for Butterick B6070 through the waist and it’s quite large.

What all of this really tells me is that I need to lose weight, but I already knew that.

What it also says is that pattern companies, much like ready to wear designers, don’t take into account trouble spots and try to help camouflage or otherwise attempt to draw attention away from them. To combat the too-large stomach area, I’ll need to come up with something that will draw the eye upward toward the neckline.

I’d like to see a silhouette more like a loose-fitting t-shirt through the waistline, because I like my fit to be a little closer to the body than what most blouse patterns seem to be these days. So if I don’t like the way this looks, that might be my next modification – to bring the waist and hips closer to my body, but not so close it’s uncomfortable when I sit.

By Monday afternoon, I hope to have the pattern drawn off and ready to lay out on some muslin. We’ll see where it goes from there.

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I may be a nerd

But at least I’m an organized nerd.

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With three machines, all different brands, I had to come up with a way to keep up with the feet, bits and pieces for each one of them. So I went to the sporting goods store to find something, and I came up with these boxes. They are shallow, which is perfect for machine feet, screws, and other small pieces. Right now, I’m using Plano series 3600 & 3700 stowaway boxes, and I have to say that I prefer the larger 3700 series for this purpose. Eventually, I’ll switch all of the machines over to the bigger box size, but right now only the Pfaff Creative 4.5 accessories are stored in the 3700.

In other news, I will be starting a new project on Monday. I am going to start the muslin process for this blouse. B5300

My plan is to combine the bodice from view C with the sleeves from view A. I would like it to be slightly fitted, but my primary concern is making sure it fits through the bust apex and the stomach. I have a stomach that’s too large, and it’s a bit of a challenge to find blouses that fit both my upper chest and my stomach and avoiding the gaping apex. I don’t do a lot of shopping because … well, I actually hate shopping for clothing; it’s never been one of my favorite things to do. But I did make a swing through Macy’s women’s department, and noticed that the big color this year is coral. And denim seems to be big, too, but right now I’m focused on the coral thing. I will need to hunt up some coral colored fabric, but I have some time, and I’m not sure that I even want to make this particular top in coral, but I digress. What I really need right now is a good white button down blouse, which seems to be impossible to find.

I will be utilizing Nancy Zieman’s book, Pattern Fitting with Confidence to help me make the adjustments to my pattern. I may also be referring to the Craftsy course , Fitting Solo by Linda Lee. I found it to be very informative when I watched it but I haven’t had a chance to use the knowledge I gained from the course. Fortunately for me, both of these sources follow very similar processes.

I will post photos and information on my progress next week. 😀